The Silver Pagoda

Day 14 – Phnom Penh, Cambodia

First, let me say that after the bad day I had on Monday, I met a Canadian in Battambang Tuesday who restored my faith in Cambodia. He bought the bar/restaurant I went to wait for my bus 6 months ago and was delighted to talk and share his experience of the country with me.

Also, he introduced me to sugar cane juice, pressed in front of me in a street cart that was driving around. It was delicious.

So. Today is Wednesday (at least, I hope, I’m losing my notion of the days of the week), and I spend the day visiting nice places in the capital.

I started with the Royal Palace and the Silver Pagoda, so-called for the silver tiles that cover the floor. In reality, the floor in covered by carpet, and only a small surface is open to the eye of the public. I escaped the guides clamouring for my patronage, and I was so used to ignoring cry for my attention that I went by the ticket attendant without showing my ticket, which wasn’t well received.

A pavilion on the grounds of the Royal Palace

The Royal Palace (picture on top of the article) is not really visitable: you can have a look through open doors to the throne room, and you can visit the grounds. Several pavilions are open, though. The Silver Pagoda is farther on the grounds, and contains several richly decorated statues of Buddha.

The Silver Pagoda

I walked to the National Museum after that, where there is a rich collection of Khmer art, and statues that come from the temples of Angkor. I took the audio guide, and I was pleasantly surprised to have not only the standard commentary on the pieces exhibited, but also the possibility to have short, added explanation on the myths behind the statuary: who was Ganesha, why he has an elephant head, who is the Garuda and his role in Hindu mythology…

The National Museum

I lingered in the courtyard, which is very pleasant, for a time, and I lingered even more when the rain came on: first, there is a violent gust of wind, you can hear shutters rattling and banging; the leaves on the palm trees are violently swaying and some will be torn. A few drops fall first, but in a few minutes, it is a drenching rain that is falling. Almost immediately it seems, gutters spout thick ropes of water.

The courtyard under the rain

At this point the wind has disappeared, the vegetation is quiet, beat down by the heavy drops, leaves lacking even the time to come back up in between.

I won’t say much about my guesthouse this time around, just that when you go cheap, you get cheap accommodations.